The Art Director’s Take: An Interview with Encarna Pachón

Hi Encarna. As its Art director you’ve told us that your latest collection “Los Bellos Perdedores” is characterized by a casting that is most unique. How has the selection process been?

This time we did the castings in three different cities: Paris, Milan and Berlin. The boys and girls that we got in the three cities had very different characteristics although they all belonged to the same generation. In each of the cities, life is lived in a certain way. In Paris we met many people with cultural and intellectual inquietudes, while in Berlin they had more artistic concerns. In Milan the predominant interest among the casting models was fashion.

What is the criterion you have followed when choosing models from the last collection?

The criterion was to choose individuals, both in terms of their features, their physical particularities and their attitude. Obviously it is easier to choose models according to the established canons, because these canons are still very present in the modeling agencies, as also continues the belief that perfection is synonymous with beauty. But in fashion this is changing.

Why these features?

More than talking about traits I would talk about different identities. Because it also reflects much of everything that is happening at the social level. All this generation, these young people are very tired of the stereotypes, that everything has to be perfect as far as physical appearance is concerned. It is a rejection of the identification of rightness with perfection. We were looking for people who had a peculiarity both in their behavior and their appearance and at the same time transmitted a lot. For us it was very important that the models brought identity to the collection and that will help us to reflect what we are seeing in the street style around the world. A fashion and a more relaxed behavior. Everything is more acceptable, perhaps. That you have ears more detached than normal is not seen badly anymore, that the appearance of your skin is not perfect either … It is the feeling that, in fashion, there is a general acceptance towards all kinds of people.

“All this generation, these young people are very tired of the stereotypes, that everything has to be perfect as far as physical appearance is concerned. It is a rejection of the identification of rightness with perfection.”

 

 

In addition to the attitude and behavior, we took into account that after the presentation of the collection, they had to represent it on stage. Although perhaps this isn’t transmitted in the photos, what if we could verify is that on stage they were all great, giving more than we expected of them, they transmitted to us that “je ne sais quoi” that sometimes we do not know why but you end up choosing that person for a collection because they are perfect to convey the essence of the collection.

“It is important to note that all the models we took for this collection were largely identified with it. Everyone belonged to this current moment that is being lived, which was very easy because they were very generous. It can be said that in general we found a very agile collection.”

 

Have you followed the same pattern as in previous collections?

No. We’ve informed the agencies that we wanted people who at first glance do not look like professional models. Then we interviewed everyone – over 300! – to choose the final 15 personals based on their character to give more identity to the collection.

What about the technical aspects? I understand that hair texture is also very important …

As for the technical part in this collection we have not taken into account finding the perfect hair so that when seeing the photos people would exclaim: Wow, what a hair! We have gone in search of people with real hair. To change the focus. Not seeing a fine hair, curly hair or bulky hair as a problem but something that sets you apart from others. Something that gives you identity.

What is the importance from the casting at the time of shaping the essence of a collection?

At the time you start casting is very important to let aside personal tastes and focus on what it is you are looking for. I think that part of the success from this collection resides in have hit the mark casting the right models. I know that there will be people who probably won’t like it or will have the opinion that such features are more likely to be from a “weirdo”. What I actually can say is that we, fashion professionals, have detected a reality and what we can do is to obviate it all.

 

 

Paul Gehring on Coiffure Magazine

Paul Gehring on Coiffure Magazine

 

Vandaag verschenen, de nieuwe editie van COIFFURE die helemaal in het teken van future proof ondernemen staat. Paul Gehring is een van de internationale kappers die zijn visie op de toekomst geeft. Klik hier voor het gehele artikel.

Yes we do… Love you!

Thank you letter by Paul Gehring. We thank you for joining us in ALCINA’s stand in Top Hair 2016.

 

Estetica Magazine – United Kingdom

“For Paul Gehring and his team, the most important thing is to make the individuality and character of both components of the happy couple stand out. Not change them just because they’re getting married.”

Friseur Welt – Germany

“In der Inspiration ‘Ja, ich will’ von Top-Stylist Paul Gehring für Alcina geht es darum, auch am Tag der Hochzeit man selber zu sein. Die Frisuren sollen die neue Natürlichkeit widerspiegeln.”

Orange Diamond – Germany“Die Top Hair International in Düsseldorf ist der wichtigste Treffpunkt für Verbraucher und Anbieter der Friseurbrache. Eine ausführliche Beratung und ein Get-together mit vielen Trends und Informationen und phänomenalen Live-Shows. Sehr gespannt war ich auf das Event von Alcina, die auf ihrem repräsentativen Stand die neuesten Alcina-Looks 2016 zeigten.”

Im Salon – Germany

“Brautpaare sind Beziehungsspiegel und Ausdruck von Persönlichkeit und Lebenseinstellung. Am wichtigsten Tag in ihrem Leben präsentieren sie sich individuell, gleichgeschlechtlich, alterslos… ALCINA widmet ihnen die neue Kollektion: #Ja, ich will!”

Friseur.com – Germany

Neue Zeiten erfordern neue Dramaturgien. Und bilden die Basis für neue Freiheiten. Alcina hat den Spirit des 21. Jahrhunderts erkannt und in seiner Lead-Inspiration für 2016 gekonnt umgesetzt. Festliches ist nicht länger gekünstelt und affektiert, sondern entspricht der Identität seiner Trägerin oder seines Trägers. Eine Lebenseinstellung – und mehr als ein Look für einen einzigen Tag. Wie nonchalant sich große Ereignisse in einem lässigen Kontext spiegeln, davon zeugte auch der Alcina-Messestand: Hier wurde das Majestätische einer gotischen Kathedralen-Architektur modern, hell und lässig interpretiert.

 

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Fashion Top 10: Highlights of 2015

2016 is just round the corner and once again we are taking a look back to refresh your memories of this year’s highlights. The world of beauty has been full of new ideas and among them we have come up with a list of the most outstanding.

  • The reigning glory of wavy hair

Wavy hair comes in at number one in our charts since it has been the focus of everyone’s attention this year. The Morrison cut, our recommendation for this year, was a real success that we will continue to see in 2016. The key factor for this look’s success is, without a shadow of a doubt, its curly fringe. 

  • Layered cuts have made a come-back

In 2015, volume in the upper part of a hairstyle came back into fashion and is here to stay

  • Goodbye to keratin and the ironing-board effect

It is time to say goodbye to dull, straight hairstyles.

  • Grey is crowned the king of all the pastel colors

Pastel colours have been extremely popular in 2015, especially grey. This has been one of the most innovative ideas in colouring this year and we are sure to see more of it in the year to come.

  • From the most radical to the most sensual of haircuts: The pixie-cut is back

We have been seeing this trend develop over the last year from the most radical cuts, with shaved backs and sides, to the sensuality of the pixie-cut.

  • Styling: The natural drying effect

The world of hair fashion has been brimming over with natural tendencies this year and a prime example of the quest for simplicity is in the styling. Certain spontaneity can only be achieved through the structure and texture of natural hair.

  • Doing away with ombrés and dip-dyes

2015 has seen ombrés and dip-dyes disappear. As a result, we are going back to highlights and making them the centre of attention, as they have always been.

  • Shaved heads

It has been years since Agyness Deyn shaved her head and left us all gaping in amazement. In 2015, we have seen many models making themselves stand out on the runway by shaving their heads. This daring move has turned out to be a really worthwhile success.

  • Styling without distinguishing between genders

It seems that the distinction between sexes is slowly but surely becoming a thing of the past. Many parts of the fashion industry have been affected by this revolution and the hairstyling sector was the first to join this rebellion.

  • Naturalness from head to toe: The new normal

Naturalness has indisputably been the most evocative trend this year in the proposals offered by the hairstyling industry. In 2015, we have brought back some of our own essence, the values with which each of us define ourselves. By bringing out the most characteristic features, we have brought naturalness back to the world of hair fashion and this will unquestionably play a starring role in 2016.

 

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Paul Gehring on tour

Paul Gehring, a man of action, was born in Holland and now lives in Barcelona; however he actually seems to feel at home anywhere in the world. This professional stylist and trendsetter is well-known for his fashion shows and fascinating makeovers. A stylist, trainer and a really hard worker: whether in the USA, South Korea or Finland, Paul Gehring’s ideas for beauty and his technical level are all the rage throughout the world. He has just finished the Alcina Looks-Tour 2015/16 with his own 70s Tribute collection project.

While already working on the next project for Alcina and at an event that was really close to his heart (decorating a home for mentally disabled people), he offered us a few of his personal reflections.

Career. I am never afraid of change and I just go my own way, which is very far from the mainstream, neither do I work simply thinking about the prizes I could win.

Creation. The key factor is recognizing the spirit of the times. In this respect, personal taste is of no importance. I try to convey good vibes with our collections. It is something magical!

Beauty. This is in the eye of the beholder. Imperfection, perhaps?

Fashion. When I look back at my roots, fashion had very little to do with hairdressers. Right now I cannot imagine it ever being two separate things.

Alcina Looks-Tour. We present trends in an annual collection according to our own interpretation. The most important aspect: team work.

Trust. Honesty and transparency are a really necessity in our everyday work together.

Inspiration. Sometimes I make too many demands on myself. The key factor is free time and creative leisure activities.

Technique. Our method is based on “working” on the hair.

Seminars. These are a great chance to find out where we are in our development. Feeling comfortable and monotony are a hairdresser’s worst enemies. I feel close to the hairdressers and share my knowledge with them.

Happiness. I should sometimes be more sensitive about this but it actually brings me peace and tranquillity.

Yearning. More time to spend with my loved ones and for myself.

Free time. Riding my motorbike, enjoying the Mediterranean life and a nice cold beer!

Paul-Gehring-OnTour_CLIPS-DEZ2015-11

The hair cut has taken over the starring role again!

Short haircuts have once again become the stars, taking back the limelight from styling. At last! It is a good time to be a hairdresser.

The messy hairstyle was the first sign we saw of this change in direction, as worn by Charlotte Gainsbourg or Caroline de Maigret. They were the ambassadors of the French-style that has become the focus of everyone’s attention thanks to its free fringe and loose waves.

We are now seeing this trend making huge advances as it is being incorporated into looks of different lengths. What we mean here are the haircuts that highlight the movement of hair so that we can now leave those tedious keratin treatments and fake straightening far behind us.

This new generation of models is dazzling us with haircuts that bring out the naturalness of their hair, achieving a result with such an impact and such individuality that styling is now taking a back seat – at last!

Those who were forced by the fashion industry to conceal the real structure of their hair are back with a bang and we have placed them at the top spot in our hair rankings.

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Steffy Argelich


Her triumphant haircut has led Steffy to take the number one slot on our podium.Her decision to swap her long hairstyle for a shaggy bob, with a fringe has launched her to stardom, strutting her stuff on the runway for Louis Vuitton’s 2015 cruise collection and being chosen as the leading model for the Mango Premium catalogue this autumn.

Mica Mica-Arganaraz-Mango-Fall-2015-Lookbook01Arganaraz


Her Jim-Morrison-style mane has led her to be selected for the top fashion shows. However, we also know her as a queen of versatility, having seen her with her hair tied back for Prada’s Autumn-Winter 14/15 campaign by Steven Meisel. This Argentine model has been placed among the top 50 in models.com’s ranking and a large part of her success is down to her unparalleled curls.

HK.Russh_.June_.2015.Hudson.01Heather Kemesky


Heather took part in the Louis Vuitton lookbook and the runway for the 2016 cruise collection, making her a star and a revelation. Although her features have always made it easy for her to find a place in the modelling world, but her career really took off when she cut her hair. Her freckles and short fringe make a perfect tandem to transform her into modern-day Joan of Arc.

Lorelle a2x0036Lorelle Rayner


We discovered Lorelle on the runway for Louis Vuitton’s 2016 cruise collection and she immediately captivated us with her hair and personal style. Lorelle ticks all the boxes to be included in this ranking and we are sure that we will be seeing a lot more of her; for example, she was selected as the cover girl for the September issue of L’Officiel Mexicolou schoof.

Lou Schoof


German model, Lou Schoof, deserves fifth place in our ranking. She is taking huge steps towards conquering the fashion world thanks to her natural French style. Do not forget this face because this girl is making huge waves in the fashion world.

A perm has never been so cool!

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Break on through to the other side

Our homage to Jim Morrison is an invitation to cross the threshold that distinguishes the two sexes. Let loose with the daring curls of the lead singer of The Doors and unleash your wild side. Man or woman, it really doesn’t matter; curls are the common denominator for this look.

We have good reason to celebrate: Curls are back and with them, their seductive spirit. So let your hair down and walk proud with those out-of-control waves. Thanks to the layering, this style gives your hair amazing volume and great flow.

In 2015, curls are not suitable for all hair types; they are quite different from those crazy styles of the 1980s. That’s the truth about our curls.

Take the plunge! Rollers are back!

Breaking the mould: the new standards of beauty

We understand standards to mean that which sets the norm or the benchmark in a certain context. Since time immemorial there has always been a set of criteria in the world of beauty that characterises what is commonly thought to be beautiful. The uniformity in the selection of models that we were once used to see is now changing. Right now, we are seeing the doors being flung open regarding these standards; no longer sealed tight, they are letting in a whole new world for the meaning of what we consider beautiful.

For quite a while we have been offering examples of this paradigm shift, even though the change towards the standards that we had been looking at has been based on the idea of age. This time we want to go even further and show you the new faces that are reshaping the world of beauty.

Among the thousands of examples of this new opening trend, the one that stands out for us is Winnie Harlow, a model whose identifying feature is a disease called vitiligo which causes discolouring to her skin, leaving her covered in patches, patches that are surprisingly very beautiful.

At the 2015 Gala Spa awards, held in Germany, the model was awarded the title “Beauty Idol,” and when she was asked what the award meant to her, she replied: “It’s an amazing honour. The fact that people recognize what I’m fighting makes my success even more valuable.”

Melaine Gaydos is also considered to be a model who has broken all the stereotypes of beauty. The 26 year old, diagnosed with ectodermal dysplasia, has been hitting our runways since 2013 when she was discovered by Style Like U’s What’s Underneath project.

We do not just find women as examples of this phenomenon. Shan Ross is the first albino model to step foot on a runway; a trained model, actor and dancer, at just 23 years old he has already modelled for prestigious fashion houses such as Alexander McQueen and Givenchy.

Another of the names on the list is Andreja Pejic, who was born as Andej Pejic and was the first model to appear on both male and female catwalks for the same collection and self-identifies as being “between two genders”.

A lot of the models we have mentioned were victims of bullying during their childhood because of the conditions that made them different from their classmates. These same conditions are now leading to their success in the world of fashion. We hope that this display of the diversity that makes up our world is not just an illusion, but is actually a step taken towards real change in the sector.

Winnie Harlow herself told Today magazine: “The only person that can make you feel that you aren’t beautiful is you.” Working in the world of fashion, we need to be aware of the burden we bear on our shoulders. Our job is to show that anyone can become more beautiful if they just follow our advice, however this beauty comes first and foremost from within, the only thing we do is to bring it out so that everyone can see it.

 

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The maturity of the muses

In the last few days we have seen the launch of the new Spring 2015 collection by the jewellery firm, Alexis Bittar. The really surprising thing about this campaign is its choice of fashion guru, Iris Apfel at 93 years old alongside Tavi Gevinson at the tender age of 19, as the new faces for the brand. Alexis Bittar himself claims that the campaign is homage to strong and non-conformist women.

However, Iris Apfel has not been the only mature muse to be chosen for this season. Joan Didion appears as the octogenarian muse for Céline and is a living example of the combination of beauty and intelligence that perfectly represents the values of Phoebe Philo’s fashion house.

The crowning jewel of this trinity of mature muses is the legendary folk singer, Joni Mitchell, who was photographed at her home in Bel Air, California for the latest campaign of Yves Saint Laurent. Three examples of what we have been predicting here for months and what seems to be the trend for 2015, which will be full of change and innovation in the models that the most prestigious firms are choosing to convey their brand image.

In this case, we are seeing brands breaking the rules more and more, adopting new values that go far beyond just pretty faces. In order to achieve this they are now opting for icons who carry with them an aura of wisdom and experience. These values are crucial ingredients for elegance, the most desirable of virtues.

This phenomenon is ever more present in the haut-couture fashion houses, but we should not forget that these new muses are stars who have triumphed in their own right, either as actresses or singers. The question is whether there is a formula that includes mature models as a way to achieving success. Choosing a person to embody the values of a brand is not something that can be simply left to chance, but is rather a fundamental reflection that has a huge effect on the brand’s impact when it hits the street and can actually make or break a brand.

As far as male models are concerned, we can find examples, such as the former porn star Aiden Shaw, who started his modelling career in his 40s when he was discovered by GQ magazine in 2012. Shaw went on to become one of the most talked about models, appearing in magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar China, Figaro Hommes and GQ. His silvery beard and hair are the characteristic traits of a professional who has been able to reinvent himself to be featured on the front pages of fashion magazines across the globe.

The German magazine Schön has also succumbed to the charms of another older model, showing that aging gracefully can be hugely attractive. Paul Mason stars in the editorial that celebrates the timelessness of the Hermès brand, with black and white photos that bring out Mason’s signature pearly-white hair and beard.

We are absolutely convinced that the experience gained over the years is a key factor to embody the values, such as poise and elegance, that we all aspire to. These are the values that all these new muses convey, the knowledge gained from the passing of time and the elegance learnt through their years of experience, values which we should all learn to appreciate more in the world of fashion, both as professionals and spectators.


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Hispanic passion through the generations, Dolce & Gabbana’s latest creations

Dolce & Gabbana’s campaigns are well-known for their colourful vitality and their stories of family celebrations. The same line has been taken for their latest collection, with some additional touches of Spanish Flamenco. According to the designers, “Spain is the new Sicily,” and this can be clearly seen in the whole collection. The images pay homage to the Spanish tradition of Flamenco dancing and bullfighting, which are both a celebration of life and customs.

One of the other characteristic hallmarks of Dolce & Gabbana’s new collection is that it is aimed at various generations of consumers, something that we have been supporting for a long time here.

This is not the first time that we have seen this fashion house include mothers and daughters together in the same collection. Gabbana caught our attention with his statement that “mothers and daughters now go shopping together.” This is the explanation provided by the founder of the fashion house for the wide age range that the collections cater to.

Just before the fashion show started, Domenico Dolce spoke about his intentions, both when creating this collection and as far as his life is concerned: “I want to be happy. I want to eat tomatoes and pasta. I want to feel passion.”

This collection Dolce & Gabbana has created is a perfect example of what we have been supporting through the role we play in fashion. We have always promoted passion as a something essential in any occupation and something that is absolutely crucial in the world of fashion. When a design or collection is created with passion, the final product is permeated with its creator’s emotions that shine through when perceived by the public and consumers.

 

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